François Rabelais
There can’t live on many things inward life that are ameliorate than a sandy beach inward the tropics. They don’t rust, they don’t pause downward in addition to they don’t fifty-fifty demand whatever maintenance (unlike many other things I could mention!) They inspire dreams. And, if we’re lucky, nosotros may fifty-fifty larn to catch them i time inward a while.
To notice that fabled oasis inward the Sun is non every bit tardily every bit it i time was, however, in addition to dissimilar 20 or thirty years ago, when y'all could only just hop on a Garuda bird to Bali, a picayune to a greater extent than endeavour is at nowadays needed to larn to a really overnice Indonesian beach which is non either overrun past times tourists or spoilt past times rubbish.
A really remote in addition to isolated beach is not, however, an alternative for many people - either because of the considerable fourth dimension in addition to endeavour needed to larn at that spot or because of the lack of decent accommodation (which tin plow that dream opor-garai into a proverbial opor-garai from hell).
So when somebody told me nearly the sandy beaches at the southern tip of the bizarrely-shaped isle of Sulawesi – just expression at it on the map! - I naturally became intrigued.
The beaches prevarication unopen to a house called Tanjung Bira in addition to to larn at that spot y'all get-go receive got to wing into the bustling urban nub of Makassar. That’s the tardily part. After that it’s a long five to vi hr journeying on what, for Indonesia, is a remarkably practiced road, which takes y'all though little traditional Bugis towns in addition to villages in addition to across extensive coastal common salt plains every bit y'all in conclusion larn closer to Bira.
The Bugis alive inward fine-looking in addition to ofttimes brightly-painted wooden houses (rumah panggung) which are built on stilts. This is intended to offering protection from wild fauna (okay I made that up) in addition to operate along the houses airy in addition to cool, but they also expression every bit if they could withstand some fairly serious flooding every bit well. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 traditional solution to Jakarta’s perennial floods, perhaps?
About 15km on the route before Tanjung Bira is the boat edifice hamlet of Tanah Beru. The structure of traditional pininsi (schooners) has been done hither for many hundreds of years now, in addition to y'all volition likely receive got already seen pininsi if you’ve e'er visited the onetime Sunda Kelapa harbor inward Jakarta. According to i of the immature boat builders I spoke to at Tanah Beru, the structure of these magnificent boats is undertaken past times adhering to the “knowledge” passed downward through the generations, amongst no actual boat edifice plans or measurements e'er made - an amazing idea when everything seems to live on written downward or recorded inward this twenty-four hours in addition to age.
Any lingering doubts over the seaworthiness of the vessels are dispelled past times elaborate ceremonies: i of which plainly involved the launching of newly-constructed schooners over the bodies of SEVEN important women. Fortunately for whatever aspiring mothers inward the surrounding area, this item ceremony is no longer carried out (perhaps the locals came to realize that the ceremony was having a rather detrimental carry on on time to come generations rather than bringing whatever practiced luck).
You know y'all receive got arrived at Tanjung Bira when y'all come upward to i of those dreaded roadside lockets where y'all are asked to pay what is in addition to thus endearingly termed inward Republic of Indonesia every bit “retribution” (for what exactly, what the f*** receive got I done wrong?!!!). But since at that spot is no gate, at that spot is no existent argue to halt in addition to that’s just what the locals do: drive at nowadays through without stopping. Just saying…
First impressions of Tanjung Bira are non really that bully to live on honest. It has that form of tired in addition to neglected experience of a house which is struggling because of a lack of visitors. Bit similar Anyer in addition to Cerita inward Banten: ghost towns past times the sea.
But Tanjung Bira isn’t really i place. It’s two. There’s the Tanjung Bira at the weekends when it’s packed amongst domestic tourists – mostly from Makassar in addition to nearby Bulukumba - in addition to the Tanjung Bira during the calendar week when it’s pretty much deserted.
Dig deeper in addition to Tanjung Bira reveals its secrets. First off, the beach at Tanjung Bira - piece non just bad - is non that bully either. However, solely nearly 3km away is the nearby Bara Beach in addition to this beach is a truthful regain amongst its wonderfully powdery sand in addition to crystal clear turquoise ocean which abruptly turns to nighttime bluish when the H2O gets deep. Being in addition to thus secluded it’s really placidity in addition to peaceful too.
Yet Republic of Indonesia wouldn’t live on Republic of Indonesia without something completely unexpected in addition to wacky going on. In Bira’s case, it’s a modestly-sized “entertainment” district situated off the town’s psyche drag consummate amongst seedy bungalows in addition to a motley assortment of inexpensive karaoke bars. “hindari pergaulan bebas & narkoba” (avoid costless sexual practice in addition to drugs), reads i sign exterior a especially ramshackle establishment. Well y'all know what they nation nearly sailors in addition to seamen …
In short, Tanjung Bira is a bully goal for seasoned travelers seeking a flake of solitude in addition to clean, secluded beaches. More adventurous types tin also become diving at that spot - although the currents tin live on potent - in addition to some decent snorkeling is commonly possible at nearby islands (depending on the conditions in addition to the conditions of the sea). Wifi inward Bira is, alas, rarer than a sighting of a Javanese tiger, in addition to thus don’t await to larn access to the net. Bring some books instead – or ameliorate silent your lover. After all, this is a holiday, isn’t it?
Traveler Tips
- Many airlines wing to Makassar every bit the urban nub is the regional hub for air shipping inward eastern Indonesia. From Makassar to Bira it’s a long 195km drive. The tardily (but expensive) means to create this is to role a rental machine (best booked inward advance). Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 much to a greater extent than challenging suggestion (but far cheaper) is to role world transportation: receive got a taxi from the airdrome to the Mellengkeri double-decker terminal (about forty minutes) in addition to from at that spot y'all tin larn a little world minivan to Bira (although y'all may demand to alter inward Bulukumba).
- Bira may live on a suitable goal to avoid the monsoon flavor since its seasonality of rainfall is dissimilar that inward Jakarta, Makassar or Bali. Generally dry out for much of the year, most pelting falls inward the months of April, May in addition to June.
- Besides the beaches at Tanjung Bira in addition to Bara Beach at that spot are many little beaches inward the surrounding expanse worth checking out, mostly deserted except for a few fishermen.
- To larn around, rent a motorbike (cheap at around Rp60k/day).
- Food is by in addition to large awful inward Bira. The solely decent eating seat is laid dorsum some means from the psyche beach, almost contrary the Wisma Bahari Indah hotel, in addition to called Rumah Makan Cici.
- Visit the nearby islands of Pulau Kambing in addition to Liukang Island for snorkeling. The coral is non fantastic in addition to at that spot is a foreign lack of large fish – receive got they all been caught? - but nosotros did spot a few little black-tipped reef sharks, turtles, trumpet fish, in addition to moray eels. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 speedboat volition terms nearly Rp350k for the trip.
- Bira has i renowned dive oculus called Bira Divers (telp: 081237200560).
- Visit an subway cave nearly 20 minutes away from Bira called P. Sohara Mandala Ria. After descending nearly lxx meters (bring a torch) y'all tin swim inward a cool, crystal-clear puddle of restrict water.
- The ameliorate value hotels are by in addition to large found away from the beach front. The Wisma Bahari Indah hotel has really affordable create clean large rooms amongst aircon in addition to TVs. The hotel is owned past times a bully guy called Pak Arifin (telp: 0853 4156 5555), Bira’s tourist policeman, in addition to he volition assistance y'all to organize boat trips, motorbike rental etc.
*A slightly different version of this article was before published inward Jakarta Expat.
Sumber https://al-terity.blogspot.com
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